Adios Seville

This morning we had one last hurrah with churros  and chocolate for breakfast in Alfalfa Plaza, our favorite neighbourhood square in Seville.

This afternoon we jumped on a high speed train from Seville to Madrid where we will spend the night. Tomorrow morning we rush to an early flight to begin our day of air travel and waiting in airports.

Ilya on high speed train. I was a real treat for him.

In the next couple of days we would like to do a few concluding posts on the cycling in Copenhagen and Seville and traveling with kids.

Just another Saturday Night in Seville

An amazing evening tonight. We went out for a walk with no particular destination. After the first turn we ended up at Alfalfa Plaza. This is one of our favourite spot that we had visited earlier in the day for a playground/cafe con leche/churros visit. This evening it had turned into the site for a religious procession. Unbeknownst to us, it was Cruz de Mayo.

We sat and watched the people carrying staffs and religious floats, smelled the incense and listened to the marching band. It was so interesting to watch and the surprise of watching the parade already made my evening. But there was more.

"The Mushrooms" from street level

We walked up to "The Mushrooms." This plaza was built for Expo 92 and Sevillianos do not like it. We had previously walked around it and visited the playground, but tonight was the first time we notice that you could go up to the top of the structure. For 3 euros (free for Sevillianos but you can't buy their love) you could take the elevator to the top to walk around and get a free drink.

The top of the structure offered a great view of the city, particularly of the bridges and churches.

After a drink, we went down to street level to get Ilya some ice cream. There police were blocking the street for yet another procession. This one with more elaborate costumes, more marchers, more incense, a beautiful float of the virgin Mary (I think) and a full marching band complete with a wind section. It was fantastic.

We hurried home to visit the flamenco bar that is two doors down from our apartment. We caught the 9:30 show. The show is free except for drinks. Ilya and Jasper enjoyed the whole set, which meant we enjoyed it too.

I thought I was ready to leave, but this city is so full of activity, surprises, socializing, art and more...

Real Alcazar (Royal Palace Seville)

We saved Sevilla's biggest tourist attraction for the last week of our trip and prepared for a full day of visiting. We had seen the long lineups for the Real Alcazar Palace, so arrived early with packed lunch. We arrived at 9am for the 9:30am opening and there was already a line-up 150 m long with two large tour groups milling about.

Entrance to Real Alcazar at 9 am, thirty minutes before opening.

The palace did not disappoint. It was room after room of beautiful and intricate tile work, a blending of madejar (arabic) and christian architecture, and a study of design spanning from the 10th to the 19th century. It is the oldest palace in Europe that is still in use. The Spanish royal family still occupies the upper floors of the palace.

There is the room where Columbus was welcomed by the Queen of Spain after his second voyage to the Americas.

Room where Columbus was received by the Queen of Spain

Under the palace sits the royal baths that provided welcome relief from the summer's heat. At the entrance to the baths restoration works was taking place to slowly reveal murals underneath the plaster.

Royal Baths under the Palace

After hours of visiting rooms, courtyards and patios, we entered the royal gardens that seemed to go on forever. They were filled with fountains and beautifully sculptured vegetation, including a maze.

Ilya in Maze of Royal Garden

Ilya falling into a 500 year old fountain.

To close out another wonderful day in Seville we had late night tapas at the restaurant down the street.

(too much) Bullfight (not enough) Stadium

Seville has a gorgeous bullfighting stadium. Our family went on a tour of this beautiful stadium Monday. Unfortunately the tour seemed to be directed at people who had an interest in bullfighting. Construction began in 1749, completed in 1864 and today it is the oldest bull ring in world.

Kate and Ilya outside bull ring

Officially titled Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla is an inspiring building the same way many of the churches are.

Visit to Cadiz (Ka-deeth)

The forecast for Seville on Sunday (May 11) was 37 C, so we made plans to jump on a train and head for the coast. We visited Cadiz a city about 125 km south-south west of Seville on Spain's southern Atlantic coast.

San Sabastian Castle

view from from San Sabastian Castle looking towards beech in Cadiz.

The seaside town made its money in the 18th century as a port to and from the new world. Today the money comes from tourist like us and the the thousands that had arrived by cruise ship.

We walked around the old town, built on a peninsula. It still felt like a marine trading town, with the watchtower and castle. 

One of our first destinations was Tavira Tower. It is one of more than 20 towers built in Cadiz in the 17th century for merchants to watch ships come from the new wold. This tower is the only tower accessible to the public. A cool surprise was the 'camera obscura', located in mezzanine of the Tower .

Locals were enjoying the beach and we dipped our toes in the Atlantic. The beach in Cadiz was pack and reminded me of Lions Bay in Vancouver with much warmer water.

When we arrived back in Seville at 9:30 pm the temperature was still 35 degrees. After putting the kids to bed, we stayed up long enough to hear the midnight fireworks closing the April Faire.

Seville April Fair in May

Every year two weeks after Easter the Seville April Fair is held. This year, because Easter was so late, the Fair was moved back to May. The Fair consists of three thousand tents called casetas. The casetas are private clubs belonging to families, businesses or trade organizations.

a row of casetas

To get into a caseta you have to be a member or be invited in by a member. It was our good fortune that the family of our Spanish teacher here has a caseta and invited us to attend with him.

The April Fair is a week long party for the Sevillanos of drinking, eating and dancing. It is also another opportunity for the city's wealthiest people to show off with grand decorated carriages and fancy dress. 

The week of the Fair you can see women dressed up all over town wearing fancy dresses and flowers in their hair ready to go to the Fair.

Women in on the street in Seville, likely on their way to the Fair

scooter bike and Fancy dress on way to Fair

We were very lucky to have the opportunity to experience this unique bit of Seville culture.

Walking back from the Fair grounds in 33 degree heat we took part in another local tradition, cooling off in the fountains in Maria Lousia Park.

Seville and The Living is Easy

the 'main' street near our apartment

As of today, Wednesday, we have been in Seville a week. Knowing that we have three weeks in the city we have eased our way into it. Moving slowly in the heat and doing a little bit every day.

pedestrianized street in Seville's shopping district

In the heat, plus 30 degree temperatures, our family is trying to live as the Sevillianos do: seize the morning, take refuge from the afternoon sun and play in streets in the early evening.

Here in Seville the streets are your living room. Everyone is out in the early evening and sometimes on the streets in the many restaurants and bars into the night.

Near our apartment there is Alfalfa Plaza, which I love. It is surrounded by restaurants and bars with a playground in the middle. In the evening it common to see parents and grandparents sitting on restaurant patios enjoying a drink while keeping a casual eye on their children. Kate and I have taken advantage of this pleasure several times this week.

Walking through Alfalfa Plaza and the surrounding neighbourhood after sunset is like a movie set to me. The lights, the streets, the people, the sounds and smells seem so perfect. It seems to me someone must have staged it.

Kate and the boys take a rest on the steps of one of the may churches here in Seville

Many of the streets in Seville are very tight. This very tight street design was intended to help keep people cool in the long hot summer months. The secondary benefit is that it also creates very nice space for people to walk, sit and play.

We have also visited the Art Gallery of Seville. It houses many spectacular pieces, but the building which was a former convent, is most extraordinary.

Courtyard of Art Gallery just inside main entrance

example of some of Seville's amazing ceramic works hangs on the wall of the Art Gallary 

Kate and the boys in the corridor surrounding the main courtyard

The former chapel of the convent is a stunning room 

Looking up from the painted column to the grand ceiling of the former convent chapel 

Chapel ceiling is amazing 

Every direction you look in this building is a spectacular view. It is an excellent example of the architecture and design held in many of the old buildings of Seville.

Loving Seville so far. Everyday is getting hotter. Sunday is forecast for 37 degrees Celsius. Maybe time for a trip to the seashore and the ancient city of Cadiz.